Marine Rope Cleats

...The Clamcleat® principle

A deceptively simple ridged 'V' groove holds ropes firmly, yet is devoid of any moving parts to break or seize.

It allows the immediate release of the rope by a short upward and backward pull.

Always tension the rope before it enters the cleat. Dragging the rope backwards over the teeth may cause damage, especially to the nylon cleats.

Fitting

Most cleats are provided with countersunk fixing holes. Countersunk head screws or bolts of the recommended size should be used; bolts being preferred. If using rivets with a powered fixing gun, make sure the pressure is not set too high. Fastenings must be entered straight so that the heads do not protrude to snag the rope. Several of the cleats have been designed with a groove in the base enabling them to be fitted to both flat and curved surfaces.

Tapered pads

As an aid to optimum rope alignment many models can be mounted on Tapered Pads, especially when a fairlead would not be appropriate.

Marine grade nylon cleats offer very good value for money, for both production builder and sailor alike. They are ideal for most applications where high loads or rope surges are not likely to be encountered. Nylon cleats are corrosion resistant and will last for many years outdoors.

Aluminium cleats

Aluminium cleats are highly successful in providing a complete answer to rope burn. They are unaffected by the heat generated by a rope surging back through a cleat as well as being suitable for sub-zero temperatures. Corrosion resistance is good.

Research into cleat materials over the years has shown aluminium to be far better for high performance cleats than any polymer, irrespective of any fibre reinforcement or additive.

These factors make aluminium cleats or alloy cleats the best choice for demanding applications. Selected cleats are also available in a HARD ANODISED FINISH, which gives a high-tech and fashionable appearance as well as offering superior resistance to sea water corrosion.

Plastic Clamcleats can need replacing, the problem being that the plastic cleat teeth become slightly worn, allowing the rope to slip out of the cleat. For example a yacht with a centreplate on a trailer held by an uphaul rope... with a Swinging Cradle type trailer where much of the centreplate slot in the bottom of the hull is exposed, there is a danger of the plate slipping down onto the ground whilst towing! You can replace the Clamcleat with a more substantial metal pillar cleat.

Replacing plastic Clamcleats

In theory a Clamcleat bolted to the side of the centreplate casing should provide a simple and quick way of cleating the plate uphaul rope. However, it is certainly not 100% effective, and when the rope slips out, the plate will crash down against the end of the case capping.

The slipping plate can jamb the boat firmly onto the trailer during launching & recovery. There is also a real danger when trailing with a swinging cradle trailer (where the centreplate slot on the bottom of the boat is unprotected for much of its length), of the plate dropping down and hitting the road underneath with possible disastrous consequences.

Replacement Options

The simplest option is to replace the original plastic Clamcleat with a more hard-wearing aluminium one.

Some owners replace the Clamcleat with a Cam Cleat but, the easiest foolproof solution is also the simplest and that is to fit an 8" metal pillar cleat. Releasing the cleats takes a few seconds longer but is guaranteed to be secure (and give peace of mind!).