Marine Survival Equipment in Liferafts

Marine Survival Equipment and the contents ofthe abandon ship bag.

Yacht liferafts

While it may come as a surprise to some, by now most people realize that the survival equipment stocked in most yacht liferafts, even rafts designed to meet SOLAS requirements, is often inadequate, sometimes woefully so. In many cases not only is the selection and quantity a problem, but the quality of the equipment and supplies is also less than desirable.

After your yacht lifejackets, most responsible mariners also stock an Abandon Ship Bag (also called a "ditch bag", "ditch kit", "grab bag", or "flee bag") with additional emergency supplies to take along in case of an abandonment. The question of what supplies to place in the bag provides plenty of stimulating discussion among sailors and boat owners. How much do you really need is always an interesting topic. Any list is simply a starting place upon which to measure your own priorities, capabilities, and resources in order to come up with your own list of supplies and equipment.

One subject that is inescapable and always controversial is "cost." Like in most things, assembling a well-equipped Abandon Ship Bag is not cheap.

Marine Survival Equipment What's What and Why along the lines of standard marine survival equipment categories, possibly adding one for "liferaft maintenance." The scope and quantities of items in this list are based on blue water cruising, the ultimate on-your-own experience, where the possibility exists for an extended stay in the liferaft if things should go seriously wrong. The quantities of some items may be reduced somewhat, or eliminated entirely, for coastal use or island hopping in heavily travelled and patrolled waters.

In these circumstances you can shed things that are obviously geared towards longer term survival situations, such as food and fishing gear, for example. You may be able to get by with fewer repair clamps, if you have reasonable expectation of a quick rescue, as another example. In part, these compromises depend on whether your cabin cruiser survival equipment includes a 406 EPIRB and back-up hand-held VHF or EPIRB. Close in to shore, reliable and effective communications will substitute for a huge amount of additional gear. Surviving is nice, but getting rescued as quickly as possible is the ultimate aim.

The quantities listed include those that may already be part of the life raft's equipment and survival supplies. However, in some cases the quality of those included items is so poor as to make them irrelevant, so it is important to identify not just what has been packed in the raft generically, but exactly what is in there.

Safety In Security

Be sure to carefully examine and test everything you plan to use in an emergency. This ensures you know how to operate the equipment and that it is functioning. Testing is absolutely critical for electronic and mechanical equipment. It isn't pretty when you've abandoned ship and your radio or EPIRB or watermaker doesn't work. It's happened. I've spoken to the survivors, they were not very pleased, but they have only themselves to blame for not testing first. I've seen failures myself in testing. Never rely on mechanical or electronic equipment you haven't tested yourself before packing.

ALL equipment must be fitted with a lanyard, wrist or tether as appropriate. You can't afford to lose anything! Neptune has a seemingly insatiable appetite for your most precious, irreplaceable pieces of survival equipment and supplies. Let him feed off someone else. Everything in liferafts should be secured at all times, either by a lanyard or inside a sealed bag that is securely attached to the raft ("secure" is the watchword!). Neck or wrist lanyards should include a means of adjustment so they can be made tight and secure. If left loose, they can still too easily slip off and the equipment is lost (been there, done that).

Some ready-made Abandon Ship Bags claim considerable flotation capability, presumably due to the foam incorporated into their sides and bottom. Don't you depend upon it! The solution is either a fully waterproof dry bag or inclusion of enough less dense materials to ensure you don't overcome the minimal inherent flotation of most of these bags. If you include a substantial quantity of water, which we recommend, that will help since it is less dense than seawater. Packing any excess space with closed cell foam would also help.

"Dry bags" are one solution and available in a number of configurations.

A good idea would be to cut some marine plywood to fit in the bottom of the bag. Carefully sand the edges smooth and seal with polyurethane and you're going to have a much more functional bag. Carrying any significant weight at all in these bags without a solid bottom is no fun. That bottom reinforcement might also be useful later on in a life raft as a cutting board or for other purposes.

Any number of other bags or containers can be used, but it's useful if the bag or case is a bright color and is conspicuously labelled as to what it is. Sturdy, easily gripped handles are a must. All such storage containers should have a few feet of lanyard attached with a secure snap clip or carabinier at the end to allow you to quickly attach it to your PFD harness or to the raft so that it doesn't go missing in the chaos that often accompanies an abandonment.

Another good place to store some of this "extra" or replacement equipment or supplies is in the life raft itself, esepcially life raft specific items. When purchasing a new raft or when having your existing raft serviced, take the opportunity to discuss these options with the manufacturer, dealer, or service center. Some manufacturers welcome the opportunity to help in this manner, other simply have a take-it-or-leave-it attitude. Most service centers are happy to assist.

Consider The Logistics

Consider the logistics of an abandonment. Take care that crew members can readily handle the fully loaded bag. Depending upon its size, it's entirely possible to stuff so much in it that it can unwieldy, or even impossible for some persons of smaller stature to lift. Bear in mind also that you might well have to do so on a wildly rolling, slippery deck in perilous conditions. Often it makes sense to split the load into two containers, especially if you have taken to heart admonishments to be well prepared. In some cases, you won't be able to fit the bag(s) in the cockpit, the best location, so at least one of multiple bags may have to go below.

If you do have to split stuff up, how do you decide what goes where? Simply split the amounts or prioritize what goes topside and what goes below? I think prioritizing is probably your best bet. Make sure the most critical gear and supplies are readily at hand. What's most important? Well, that will vary somewhat with the people involved, their capabilities, and where you are. If you compare what the possible consequences of not having something are to other possible inclusions it should become easier to decide, if not exactly easy. Still, lack of some things will surely kill you sooner than lack of others, fresh water vs. food being a prime example.

In any case, no matter how well you stock your abandon ship bag, there are going to other items which you need to plan to take with you. Being organized and practice are the only defenses when an emergency occurs. Too often there will be little time to prepare and an abandonment will have to be preformed post-haste, with no time to spare as water pours in or a fire spreads.

Crew members should be able to locate and retrieve critical items in the dark -- no different than a soldier being able to field strip his equipment in the dark. Practice, practice, practice. It should take no longer than 30 second for the crew to collect all the gear and be ready to launch the life raft and abandon ship. If that sounds like it's not enough time, talk to a few sailors who have seen their boats go under just that quickly. If you have a plan and practice, it is doable with time to spare.

Will most people invest the time and effort? Unfortunately, probably not, but at a minimum you should do a run-through with the crew before getting underway, so at least everyone has some concept of their responsibilities and what needs doing in the unlikely case that it comes to that. It may help to post an abandon ship checklist in a conspicuous place, perhaps in the companionway.

You should never assume all hands will be available to perform their assigned jobs during the abandonment. Some well-intentioned abandon ship plans fall apart at this point because the developer forgets someone might already have been lost overboard or incapacitated. All crew members should at least be familiar with all that needs to be done and what the priorities are.

Abandon Ship Bag

Signaling

406 Emergency position indicating radio beacons EPIRB(s)

Plus? That's right! Surviving is fine, but what you really want is to be rescued -- as quickly as possible. The most effective method of accomplishing this is via a 406MHz EPIRB. The advantages offered by the 406 are key.

I consider a 406 EPIRB the single most important piece of survival equipment in the life raft. The 406 EPIRB will make up for a lot of other deficiencies in equipment and supplies, though it should never be used as an excuse to skimp elsewhere.

If you can't afford to buy a 406 EPIRB right now, BOAT/U.S. Foundation has a low cost rental program for occasional use, such as if making a passage. Note that you generally have to make a reservation a month or two ahead of time.

However, they are electronic and they have been known to fail, I have been witness to that. So, ideally you want to invest in two (though admittedly few feel they can afford two at current prices), preferably by two different manufacturers so there is no chance that some inherent design flaw or manufacturing defect could cripple both. One should go in the bag, the other can either be packed in the life raft or mounted on the boat where it can be grabbed quickly.

For coastal use, especially in heavily travelled waters and if you have a good waterproof VHF handheld and are otherwise well equipped, a single 406 EPIRB will certainly suffice, but be sure to self-test it regularly. A 121.5 EPIRB is not a substitute for a 406 EPIRB. (aside from other good reasons not to rely upon a 121.5 MHz distress beacon, processing of 121.5 MHz distress signals by COSPAS-SARSAT is going away.)

Make sure the 406 EPIRB you purchase has a fresh battery. We have heard reports of some EPIRBs that have sat on shelves long enough to have less than half their original battery life remaining. This becomes especially critical for long-distance, multi-year cruisers since many 406 EPIRBS require the unit be returned to the manufacturer or an authorized service center for battery replacement. That might not be so easy or affordable from some small atoll in the Pacific. In such an instance, it may be advisable to replace a few-years-old battery, with life still remaining, before departing your home port.

Don't forget to register your tron EPIRBs! Remember, the primary goal after surviving the abandonment is to get rescued!

Finally, a couple important tips. Most 406 EPIRBs and even some 121.5 EPIRBs are equipped with a flashing beacon to serve as a location aid. In their wisdom, the powers that be decided that the 406 EPRIB is supposed to float on a tether outside in the water. Unfortunately, the dolts never took into consideration human nature. Nobody I know is about to trust their life to a very thin piece of nylon or poly line, especially in foul weather. The EPIRB is going to be inside the raft where it will be safe and cannot be lost. Two things to be aware of:

The EPIRB must be oriented with the antenna vertical to operate properly. You can't just lay it down on the floor of the raft. If raft is equipped with a canopy, tie or tape it to the vertical canopy arch.

The beacon flashing inside the raft will drive you nuts or make you ill in quick time. Take some duct tape and cover up the flashing beacon and preserve your sanity and your health.

1 - VHF Handheld

You can include a special yacht survival equipment radio, the best solution, but in most cases this will likely be the one you normally use on the boat, preferably waterproof (or in a waterproof enclosure). ideally, it should be GMDSS compliant, most late model ones are. However, you cannot rely upon the rechargeable ni-cad batteries that you most likely use for normal operations. Be sure your emergency handheld takes alkaline or lithium batteries and make sure they are in the abandon ship bag. If your handheld is not able to be equipped with an alkaline or lithium battery pack, it isn't really suitable for survival use.

2 - Signal Mirrors

8 to 12+ - SOLAS Parachute Flares

6+ - SOLAS Handheld Flares

2 - SOLAS Smoke Flares

24+ - Pen or Pistol launched Meteor Flares

These are compact (the smallest ones using a pen-style launcher taking up in total no more space than a single SOLAS parachute flare and they are nearly as effective as the much bulkier and more expensive standard 12 gauge pistol flare.), relatively inexpensive, loud, and bright enough to be reasonably effective at attracting attention from a moderate distance -- if you have plenty of them. They are typically sold in a kit with only 3 to 6 flares, totally inadequate. Be sure to order lots of additional flares. Make sure also that they are well packed to protect them from moisture as these flares are the most susceptible to problems. These are not a substitute for SOLAS parachute flares.

"Flares are like blessings, you cannot have too many." I am not sure who first spoke or penned this old saw, but it is certainly true. I have seen brand new flares fail and decade old ones work fine. The more you have, the better. Keep them stored in a dry waterproof package and they will generally last far longer than the USCG mandated 42 month expiration required by regulation. Never toss out expired flares unless they are obviously damaged.

Do not just throw flares into the bag, even if they seem to be waterproof by design. My recommendation is that you vacuum bag them for longest life, especially the small meteor flares. Good flares are not inexpensive, treat them with care so your investment lasts as long as possible and they will serve you more reliably in time of need.

Finally, practice with some live flares so you know what to expect. Many organizations and schools work with the USCG and similar agencies worldwide to provide this valuable experience. Pyrotechnics are dangerous, both to people and your raft. I have seen rafts holed and students burned with instructors sitting in the raft right next to the student. Be very careful, read the instructions, and THINK FIRST before you fire off any pyrotechnic device!

11-inch RescueStreamer

Far better than short lived and messy sea dye marker, the 40 ft. (12.2 m) long streamer offers long lasting, unattended, and much improved visibility for easier sighting by airborne SAR, often critical in open water rescues. The 11-inch (28 cm) RescueStreamer is similar in size to a SOLAS parachute flare when packed.

Strobe Light

Not a high priority in our opinion, but worth having. Be sure to include spare battery(ies).

Whistle or Horn

The whistle is hopefully redundant since you should have one on your person at all times anyway and of questionable value on the high seas, but they're cheap and small, so why not. A horn could be useful, especially in heavily traveled costal or inland waters, but the gas canisters have very limited life. Some allow you to revert to manual lung-operated mode as a back-up and they might be a better choice. To prevent leakage, never pack with the horn attached to the cylinder. A good alternative is the "Admiral Hornblower," a sort of oversized whistle which is remarkably loud.

Binoculars

Is it real, or a mirage? A pair of binoculars can help you decide -- before you waste precious signals and energy. Usually, you'll just grab the pair you normally use on the boat, just don't forget them.

Abandon Ship Bag

Food and Water

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16+ - Water Packs - 125 ml each - 2 litres total (per person)

2 gallons (8 litres)+ - Supplementary Water (per person)

Fresh water is essential for survival. However, you can only pack so much in the raft and abandon ship bag themselves. Supplementary water supplies are important, even with a watermaker. Be sure that supplementary water supplies are stored in sturdy containers with watertight screw-on caps. These should float when filled, or allow sufficient air space to provide floatation. All containers should be tethered together with lanyards to ensure they are not lost.

Note that the 125 ml foil water packets supplied almost universally these days are problematic to use. Be sure to include containers (see below) to transfer the water into from the packets for ease of use and less chance of wasting this precious resource.

Katadyn PUR Survivor 06 Reverse Osmosis Manual Desalinator Pump

The only practical and reliable way to turn salt water into fresh. While much more expensive, the military model offers significant advantages. Note also that the 06 requires regular maintenance, just like the life raft. You can perform the required biocide application yourself (biocide is included when you purchase the pump), but every few years it is a good idea to have the complete pump serviced. If money and space is not a major consideration, consider a Katadyn Survivor 35 model. The difference in effort required to pump and the quantity of water delivered is significant.

Water Purification - Chemical or Filter

A tiny bottle of Potable Aqua should suffice. Won't turn salt water into fresh, but will ensure freshwater is more or less safe, whether you're floating in it or you make it to shore. A filter can provide even greater protection. Also useful if the boat's freshwater supply turns foul.

2400 kcal (10,000 kj)+ - Survival Rations (per person)

This represents approximately 3-4 day's minimal rations in temperate or tropical climes. Experience suggests that your appetite will be suppressed initially, especially so if abandonment occurs in heavy weather conditions. In colder waters you will use more energy to stay warm and therefor require more food. Energy bars and similar consumer foods are not substitutes for quality survival rations.

30 - Chewable Multi-Vitamins (per person)

2 - Graduated Drinking Cups

4 - Water Containers 1 quart/ 1 liter each

These are in addition to the supplemental water containers which might not make it on board the raft. Equipment can be packed inside hard containers to conserve space or you can use collapsible containers. All should have a screw-on cap. If a small cap is used, add a funnel to your equipment list. A zipper-lock plastic bag is not an acceptable substitute.

Enema Syringe or Kit